I just got a Kodak Playsport pocket sized camcorder and made my first video.
Hope you find it informative.
Friday, December 24, 2010
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Waterproofing Cotton Canvas
A lot of very useful military surplus gear is made from cotton canvas. Canvas is rugged and depending on the sample, may be somewhat naturally water repellent. When wet, the fibers swell and keep out more water.
However, if you expect it to be exposed to drenching rain you'll want to treat the canvas with something to make it more water resistant. Traditionally, this was done with a variety of substances, ranging from boiled linseed oil or beeswax, to alum salts or parafin.
One waterproofing treatment which has been available over the counter for several decades is Sno Seal. Its main ingredient is beeswax and it's been sold for the purpose of waterproofing leather. I've been using it for years on stuff like my boots and leather possibles bag. It's also good for use on holsters because it does not soften the leather. Last night I decided to give it a try on some canvas.
A few years ago I bought this canvas shoulder bag at a gun show. It was marked as being a Czech bread or gas mask bag.
It's a nice little bag suitable for carrying some stuff on a day hike. Here's what it looks like now that I've given it a coat of Sno Seal.
The Sno Seal slightly darkened the canvas and gives it a waxy feel. If you look closely you can see some beads of water. After waxing it I held it under a runng faucet for about 20 seconds. The water ran right off.
If you want to try this I suggest applying some Sno Seal onto a small, inconspicuous area of whatever you're trying to waterproof in case you don't like either the color or feel.
While modern materials have many advantages over traditional outdoor gear, the older stuff still can work well.
However, if you expect it to be exposed to drenching rain you'll want to treat the canvas with something to make it more water resistant. Traditionally, this was done with a variety of substances, ranging from boiled linseed oil or beeswax, to alum salts or parafin.
One waterproofing treatment which has been available over the counter for several decades is Sno Seal. Its main ingredient is beeswax and it's been sold for the purpose of waterproofing leather. I've been using it for years on stuff like my boots and leather possibles bag. It's also good for use on holsters because it does not soften the leather. Last night I decided to give it a try on some canvas.
A few years ago I bought this canvas shoulder bag at a gun show. It was marked as being a Czech bread or gas mask bag.
It's a nice little bag suitable for carrying some stuff on a day hike. Here's what it looks like now that I've given it a coat of Sno Seal.
The Sno Seal slightly darkened the canvas and gives it a waxy feel. If you look closely you can see some beads of water. After waxing it I held it under a runng faucet for about 20 seconds. The water ran right off.
If you want to try this I suggest applying some Sno Seal onto a small, inconspicuous area of whatever you're trying to waterproof in case you don't like either the color or feel.
While modern materials have many advantages over traditional outdoor gear, the older stuff still can work well.
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Lantern Fuel Warning
Link.
Please be careful with what you put into your lanterns. Use proper fuel!
WARNING:
NOVEMBER 2010
VERIFY THAT THE FLASH POINT OF ANY KEROSENE THAT YOU
PLAN TO USE IN ANY OIL LAMP OR LANTERN OR KEROSENE HEATER IS
BETWEEN 124 AND 150 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
We have started receiving reports of lanterns developing "run-away" flames where the flame flares up and runs out of control.
When this happens, the only way to extinguish the flame is to smother the lantern. Place an inverted bucket over the lantern, or shovel dirt on it to extinguish the flame.
Upon investigation, we have discovered that the W.M. Barr & Co. is now packaging Paint Thinner labeled as Klean-Strip® 1-K Kerosene. I have personally spoken with a representative of the W. M. Barr & Co. to verify this fact. Here is the link to the MSDS sheet showing that the product they are selling as kerosene is actually paint thinner, and has a flash point of 101 degrees Fahrenheit, and thus should not be used in oil lamps and lanterns.
KLEAN-STRIP 1-K KEROSENE is sold nationwide, and should not be used in any oil lamps or lanterns.
THE MINIMUM FLASH POINT FOR KEROSENE FOR USE IN OIL LAMPS AND LANTERNS IS 124 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
The W.M. Barr & Co. also produces Klean-Strip® Klean Heat® Kerosene Substitute which has a flashpoint of 145 degrees Fahrenheit, can be used indoors in oil lamps and lanterns.
Sunnyside Corporation 1-K Kerosene has a flash point of 124 degrees Fahrenheit, and can be used outdoors in oil lamps and lanterns.
Please be careful with what you put into your lanterns. Use proper fuel!
Monday, November 15, 2010
Upon buying a new gun …
… the first thing you should after getting it home is to field strip, clean and lubricate it.
Why?
A few reasons:
1. You want to verify that it’s in good condition. As with any factory produced good, sometimes lemons slip out the door. And with used guns, you want to be sure that there aren’t any hidden signs of neglect or abuse.
2. New guns are frequently shipped not with lubricant but with a long-term corrosion inhibitor. For example, the blued Ruger P-90 which I used to own came from the factory slathered in an anti-corrosion grease, which was rather sticky. Others are shipped bone dry, e.g., the stainless Ruger SP-101 which I bought last week.
3. Used guns are frequently filthy with powder and metal fouling and congealed lubricant. For example, this year I bought myself a birthday present in the form of a WW2 vintage S&W Victory Model revolver. This is what it looked like inside before I cleaned it:
After a proper clean and lube the action works very smoothly. Prior to doing so, it could be charitably described as “gooey.”
4. By field stripping, cleaning and lubing a gun that’s new to you, you’ll gain familiarity with the mechanism, which will help you troubleshoot if you run into problems.
If you buy a new gun you should get a owner’s manual with it, detailing proper care. If not, locate the maker on the web and either call them for a manual (most will mail you one for free) or download a manual.
Manuals are also available from some other sites. For example, Steve’s Pages is a treasure trove of shooting related information, including a large collection of owner’s manuals in PDF format. I’ve also seen owner’s manuals on Scribd.
So, before you take a new gun to the range, take some time to learn how to properly maintain it. Doing so will help ensure that it works when you need it.
Saturday, November 13, 2010
Saturday Night Range Report
Over on Blog O'Stuff, I've posted a range report about three pistols:
Check it out.
- My old reliable Browning Hi Power Practical.
- My new Ruger SP-101.
- My father's new Rock Island Armory M1911A1.
Check it out.
Sunday, November 07, 2010
Wool Shirt Update
Last month I wrote about the two wool field shirts I bought, one American and one Canadian. Now that the weather has cooled down I’ve had the chance to test them out some more.
The American shirt is noticeably softer and less scratchy. On the other hand the Canadian shirt is a bit heavier and more wind resistant. I wore the American one as a shirt-jac this morning on my Harbor Freight run and found that it offered little protection against the wind.
After getting back from HF I switched to the Canadian shirt for the time I was out mounting the security light, and I also wore it this afternoon when we all went up to the local playground. The temp today peaked at about 50 degrees F. but it felt a lot colder due to a constant strong wind. I was much more comfortable with the Canadian shirt as my outer layer.
Keeping in mind their respective limitations I am very happy with both shirts. I just wish it was easier to find either of them in size XL. Even with shipping from Canada, the Canadian shirt was quite a bit cheaper than newly made commercial equivalents.
The American shirt is noticeably softer and less scratchy. On the other hand the Canadian shirt is a bit heavier and more wind resistant. I wore the American one as a shirt-jac this morning on my Harbor Freight run and found that it offered little protection against the wind.
After getting back from HF I switched to the Canadian shirt for the time I was out mounting the security light, and I also wore it this afternoon when we all went up to the local playground. The temp today peaked at about 50 degrees F. but it felt a lot colder due to a constant strong wind. I was much more comfortable with the Canadian shirt as my outer layer.
Keeping in mind their respective limitations I am very happy with both shirts. I just wish it was easier to find either of them in size XL. Even with shipping from Canada, the Canadian shirt was quite a bit cheaper than newly made commercial equivalents.
Harbor Freight Run
I got a flyer from Harbor Freight (the home of cheap Chinese tools) earlier this week, so this morning after clipping some coupons, I took my younger daughter on a trip to the local store.
Aside from deals on leather work gloves, a cheap set of mechanic’s gloves,a set of hole saws, and a kite for the kids, I picked up a couple things which may be of interest to preppers.
First was a 9 LED flashlight powered by 3 AAA batteries. With a coupon from the flyer it was free. Based on past experience with similar Chicom made lights, these cheap LED flashlights work fine for light use. It’s no replacement for a good flashlight like a SureFires or a Streamlight, but for leaving in the door pocket of my truck as a secondary flashlight , it’s perfect.
More interesting was the 36 LED Solar Security Light (item #98085) with a motion sensor which I got for under $20. I mounted it to the side of my shed facing my driveway. It’s powered by a 6V NiCad battery pack which is supposed to charge in 6 to 8 hours of sunlight.
Before mounting it I wrapped some electrical tape around the seam where the front and back meet, in order to improve the weather resistance. I’m going to look into making a better seal for where the plug from the solar panel attaches to the light itself.
I ran into one problem when mounting it. The mounting holes on the back are marked as being 2-11/16th” apart. In reality they are about 2–1/2” apart, which meant I had an extra hole in my shed to fill with some silicone sealant. That was annoying.
Tonight I reread the instructions which came with it and it said to leave it off for 2 or 3 days before first use, in order to fully charge the unit. When I went out to turn it off it detected me and lit up the area nicely. The amount of light it provides is pretty good for my application – lighting up the top of my driveway when we come home at night, and lighting up any nighttime interlopers. If it works out well I may get a couple more. Even if the battery pack lasts only a year or two, it’s made up of several AA NiCads, which I can replace easily.
Being NiCads, it’ll be interesting to see how well it works in colder temperatures. I suspect to see some degradation when it gets below freezing.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Just One Rifle
I recently got this question from a reader:
First, to be pedantic, an "assault rifle" is a select fire rifle which fires an intermediate power cartridge. However, in modern American vernacular the term has come to mean a military style semiautomatic rifle. The meat of my answer follows:
It's not an easy question to answer. Pretty much off the bat I'd narrow my choices down to an AK, an AR-15, and M-1 Carbine, or a VZ-58. Rifles like the FAL, CETME, or G3 are great pieces but I'd want something lighter.
I think at this time I'm leaning towards a Kalashnikov with the following features:
1. Chambered for 7.62x39. With softpoints it offers better terminal ballistics on either criminals or medium game than 5.45x39 or 5.56x45. Ammo is plentiful and cheaper than 5.56, though military surplus 5.45 is the cheapest available centerfire rifle ammo.
2. Folding stock, for storage and transport. I have AKs with fixed stocks, an Ace folder, an East German folder, a Tapco T6 M4-style stock, and an underfolder. The Ace is the most comfortable of the folders but the E. German folder is probably the most robust. A regular fixed stock is the best for comfort and durability. (An exception for me are the Yugoslav fixed stocks. The comb is too high for me to shoot them comfortably.)
3. A flash suppressor. This is mostly to protect the shooter's night vision, not so much conceal him from anyone else. The Norinco Type 84 flash hider seems to work well. Muzzle brakes reduce recoil but greatly increase blast and flash.
4. A red dot sight. My eyes ain't getting any younger and one area a factory stock AK lacks is in the sights. They are OK at short range but suck for work beyond 100 yards. Worse, they are hard to see in low light. Also, if for some reason I don't have my glasses then I can hardly see the iron sights even under perfect conditions. The Combloc side mounts work well but most of them place the optic too high for a good cheek weld. Tonight I installed an Ultimak on my SAR-1 and mounted a Bushnell TRS-1 RDS. This setup is light and mounts the optic so that it cowitnesses with the irons. I.e., I can use the iron sight through the RDS if the latter dies.
5. A milled receiver is nice but not a must-have. In my experience, a milled receiver rifle just feels smoother and more solid than most rifles with a stamped receiver. On the other hand, my Yugo underfolder with a 1.6mm stamped receiver feels as solid as my milled Bulgarian rifles. For some reason my MAK-90 which also has a 1.6mm receiver doesn't feel quite as solid.
6. Plastic handguard with a steel heat shield, like those from K-Var. All you have to do is fire off a couple magazines in quick succession to understand why. Wood handguards, or plastic without a heat shield can get so hot you can't even hold them.
The main reasons for choosing an AK over an AR-15 is ease of maintenance and long term durability. AR-15s are reliable rifles but have a lot more parts, some of which are small, and overall the rifle requires more maintenance. Also, an AR-15 can be rendered inoperable if the buffer tube gets dented or bent. An AK could be made inoperable with damage to the gas tube but it's easier to replace than the AR's buffer tube. That said, the AR-15 has better ergonomics and is generally more accurate, often quite a bit more accurate.
For decades the AK had one big advantage over the AR-15/M-16 in the magazine department. Aluminum AR-15 magazines are about as robust as a soda can. As far as I'm concerned with the advent of the Magpul P-Mag it's now a wash.
My Century Arms VZ-2008 (VZ-58 clone) has turned out to be a reliable piece, after a break in period. My reason for not choosing it is that at least in the US, it's still a bit of an oddball, with comparatively limited access to spare parts or magazines.
Other rifles like the Robinson Arms XCR or the MSAR STG-556 are quality arms but like the VZ-58, spares could be an issue unless you stocked up in advance.
I'm a big fan of the M-1 Carbine. In my experience they've been reliable and they are certainly fun to shoot. However, they are 100 yard guns and .30 Carbine ammo is no longer as plentiful or cheap as it once was. And while .30 Carbine JSPs by all accounts work extremely well on bad guys, it's a marginal round for any game animal larger than a coyote. So, if it came down to having only one semiauto rifle, I'd have to pass on an M-1 Carbine.
Of course, I reserve the right to change my opinion at any time. :-)
I was wondering with all you testing of assault rifles, which one would you chose if given the choice, " I can have only one" ?????
First, to be pedantic, an "assault rifle" is a select fire rifle which fires an intermediate power cartridge. However, in modern American vernacular the term has come to mean a military style semiautomatic rifle. The meat of my answer follows:
It's not an easy question to answer. Pretty much off the bat I'd narrow my choices down to an AK, an AR-15, and M-1 Carbine, or a VZ-58. Rifles like the FAL, CETME, or G3 are great pieces but I'd want something lighter.
I think at this time I'm leaning towards a Kalashnikov with the following features:
1. Chambered for 7.62x39. With softpoints it offers better terminal ballistics on either criminals or medium game than 5.45x39 or 5.56x45. Ammo is plentiful and cheaper than 5.56, though military surplus 5.45 is the cheapest available centerfire rifle ammo.
2. Folding stock, for storage and transport. I have AKs with fixed stocks, an Ace folder, an East German folder, a Tapco T6 M4-style stock, and an underfolder. The Ace is the most comfortable of the folders but the E. German folder is probably the most robust. A regular fixed stock is the best for comfort and durability. (An exception for me are the Yugoslav fixed stocks. The comb is too high for me to shoot them comfortably.)
3. A flash suppressor. This is mostly to protect the shooter's night vision, not so much conceal him from anyone else. The Norinco Type 84 flash hider seems to work well. Muzzle brakes reduce recoil but greatly increase blast and flash.
4. A red dot sight. My eyes ain't getting any younger and one area a factory stock AK lacks is in the sights. They are OK at short range but suck for work beyond 100 yards. Worse, they are hard to see in low light. Also, if for some reason I don't have my glasses then I can hardly see the iron sights even under perfect conditions. The Combloc side mounts work well but most of them place the optic too high for a good cheek weld. Tonight I installed an Ultimak on my SAR-1 and mounted a Bushnell TRS-1 RDS. This setup is light and mounts the optic so that it cowitnesses with the irons. I.e., I can use the iron sight through the RDS if the latter dies.
5. A milled receiver is nice but not a must-have. In my experience, a milled receiver rifle just feels smoother and more solid than most rifles with a stamped receiver. On the other hand, my Yugo underfolder with a 1.6mm stamped receiver feels as solid as my milled Bulgarian rifles. For some reason my MAK-90 which also has a 1.6mm receiver doesn't feel quite as solid.
6. Plastic handguard with a steel heat shield, like those from K-Var. All you have to do is fire off a couple magazines in quick succession to understand why. Wood handguards, or plastic without a heat shield can get so hot you can't even hold them.
The main reasons for choosing an AK over an AR-15 is ease of maintenance and long term durability. AR-15s are reliable rifles but have a lot more parts, some of which are small, and overall the rifle requires more maintenance. Also, an AR-15 can be rendered inoperable if the buffer tube gets dented or bent. An AK could be made inoperable with damage to the gas tube but it's easier to replace than the AR's buffer tube. That said, the AR-15 has better ergonomics and is generally more accurate, often quite a bit more accurate.
For decades the AK had one big advantage over the AR-15/M-16 in the magazine department. Aluminum AR-15 magazines are about as robust as a soda can. As far as I'm concerned with the advent of the Magpul P-Mag it's now a wash.
My Century Arms VZ-2008 (VZ-58 clone) has turned out to be a reliable piece, after a break in period. My reason for not choosing it is that at least in the US, it's still a bit of an oddball, with comparatively limited access to spare parts or magazines.
Other rifles like the Robinson Arms XCR or the MSAR STG-556 are quality arms but like the VZ-58, spares could be an issue unless you stocked up in advance.
I'm a big fan of the M-1 Carbine. In my experience they've been reliable and they are certainly fun to shoot. However, they are 100 yard guns and .30 Carbine ammo is no longer as plentiful or cheap as it once was. And while .30 Carbine JSPs by all accounts work extremely well on bad guys, it's a marginal round for any game animal larger than a coyote. So, if it came down to having only one semiauto rifle, I'd have to pass on an M-1 Carbine.
Of course, I reserve the right to change my opinion at any time. :-)
Monday, October 04, 2010
US and Canadian Military Surplus Wool Shirts
With colder weather coming soon it's time to start thinking about Fall and Winter clothing. One old standby for cold weather wear is the USGI M-1951 wool field shirt.
The M-1951 shirts are easily found and cheap, even in near new condition. Unfortunately, most are size S, M, or L. The XLs are getting difficult to find. Last weekend I checked one of the surplus dealers at the Valley Forge gun show and came home with a size Large M-1951 for $15.
The Canadian military issued a nearly identical copy of the M-1951. I found a Canadian seller on eBay with them in stock and ordered one back on 9/10. It arrived on 9/21. After shipping the cost was about $33.
Both shirts appear to be unissued. The fabric of the Canadian shirt is a little darker than the US shirt, and the Canadian one is made of coarser wool. The US shirt is noticeably softer to the touch. Both shirts are made from 85% / 15% wool / nylon. I'd say construction quality is about equal between the two but the US shirt had more loose threads to snip.
Both shirts feature seams in the back taking in their girth. If the shirt feels tight around your midsection you can carefully tear out these seams to make it a little larger.
The US shirt is a size L, the Canadian is XL. I am 5'6" and weigh about 180 lbs. (beer gut/built in SHTF food reserve). I wear 34" sleeves and 17.5" neck. The US shirt fits me OK but it would be nice if it was an inch or two longer. The Canadian shirt fits a bit more loosely in the shoulder area, which I find more comfortable. I tried layering them and the Canadian shirt fits comfortably over the US shirt.
I tried each one individually as a layer underneath my Mountain Hardwear Alchemy softshell jacket. For this use the US shirt works better due to the slim cut of the softshell's sleeves.
I wore the Canadian shirt as an outer layer when I went to the range yesterday. Conditions were partly sunny with temps were in the 50s and it worked well as a light jacket. Once the temperature got past 60 I had to take it off, since I started to get too warm.
Tonight I wore it on a one mile walk around my subdivision in a light rain with a little bit of wind. I was especially interested in how weatherproof it is, even though it's not really designed as a wet weather jacket. I was out for about a half hour and I stayed dry, however. The contrast between my arms and torso and my legs, which were covered by my jeans, was dramatic. As expected, the denim of my jeans quickly wet through. The shirt did not allow any water to pass through until I stuck my arm under a stream coming off the corner of my roof. The wool shirts won't be replacing my softshell for wet weather (especially if there's wind), but it's nice to know that if I'm wearing it and I get caught in some light rain, my core will remain dry.
One big advantage wool clothing has over modern technical garments is that it's safer if you're around open flame, including campfires. If a burning log pops and a spark lands on your wool shirt, no big deal, it'll go right out. If that same spark lands on fleece, a soft or hardshell, it'll melt a hole in it.
The US and Canadian milsurp wool shirts are old technology but they still work very well. The USGI shirts can frequently be found for under $20. Even at $33 shipped, the Canadian shirt is a bargain compared with a similar commercial product.
The M-1951 shirts are easily found and cheap, even in near new condition. Unfortunately, most are size S, M, or L. The XLs are getting difficult to find. Last weekend I checked one of the surplus dealers at the Valley Forge gun show and came home with a size Large M-1951 for $15.
The Canadian military issued a nearly identical copy of the M-1951. I found a Canadian seller on eBay with them in stock and ordered one back on 9/10. It arrived on 9/21. After shipping the cost was about $33.
Both shirts appear to be unissued. The fabric of the Canadian shirt is a little darker than the US shirt, and the Canadian one is made of coarser wool. The US shirt is noticeably softer to the touch. Both shirts are made from 85% / 15% wool / nylon. I'd say construction quality is about equal between the two but the US shirt had more loose threads to snip.
Both shirts feature seams in the back taking in their girth. If the shirt feels tight around your midsection you can carefully tear out these seams to make it a little larger.
The US shirt is a size L, the Canadian is XL. I am 5'6" and weigh about 180 lbs. (beer gut/built in SHTF food reserve). I wear 34" sleeves and 17.5" neck. The US shirt fits me OK but it would be nice if it was an inch or two longer. The Canadian shirt fits a bit more loosely in the shoulder area, which I find more comfortable. I tried layering them and the Canadian shirt fits comfortably over the US shirt.
I tried each one individually as a layer underneath my Mountain Hardwear Alchemy softshell jacket. For this use the US shirt works better due to the slim cut of the softshell's sleeves.
I wore the Canadian shirt as an outer layer when I went to the range yesterday. Conditions were partly sunny with temps were in the 50s and it worked well as a light jacket. Once the temperature got past 60 I had to take it off, since I started to get too warm.
Tonight I wore it on a one mile walk around my subdivision in a light rain with a little bit of wind. I was especially interested in how weatherproof it is, even though it's not really designed as a wet weather jacket. I was out for about a half hour and I stayed dry, however. The contrast between my arms and torso and my legs, which were covered by my jeans, was dramatic. As expected, the denim of my jeans quickly wet through. The shirt did not allow any water to pass through until I stuck my arm under a stream coming off the corner of my roof. The wool shirts won't be replacing my softshell for wet weather (especially if there's wind), but it's nice to know that if I'm wearing it and I get caught in some light rain, my core will remain dry.
One big advantage wool clothing has over modern technical garments is that it's safer if you're around open flame, including campfires. If a burning log pops and a spark lands on your wool shirt, no big deal, it'll go right out. If that same spark lands on fleece, a soft or hardshell, it'll melt a hole in it.
The US and Canadian milsurp wool shirts are old technology but they still work very well. The USGI shirts can frequently be found for under $20. Even at $33 shipped, the Canadian shirt is a bargain compared with a similar commercial product.
Friday, October 01, 2010
East Coast Super Soaker
Here on the East Coast we've had a few days of rain, saturating the ground. Last night we got another heavy storm which dumped about ten inches of rain in my area. Some places got up to 21 inches. That, plus the saturated ground resulted in widespread flooding. The local news is currently showing some deep flooding in Delaware County, including a half-submerged school bus.
When I pulled into the parking lot at my train station this morning there were only a handful of cars. I parked, turned the radio to the local AM news station, and pulled up SEPTA's web page on my Droid. Service had been suspended on my train as well as the two other lines I can use as a backup to get into center city Philadelphia. Parking a full size SUV in downtown Philly would cost me at least $25 for the day, plus getting home would be a real PITA. At that point I decided to just work from home today.
Some things to keep in mind when dealing with storms involving heavy rain and wind:
When I pulled into the parking lot at my train station this morning there were only a handful of cars. I parked, turned the radio to the local AM news station, and pulled up SEPTA's web page on my Droid. Service had been suspended on my train as well as the two other lines I can use as a backup to get into center city Philadelphia. Parking a full size SUV in downtown Philly would cost me at least $25 for the day, plus getting home would be a real PITA. At that point I decided to just work from home today.
Some things to keep in mind when dealing with storms involving heavy rain and wind:
- Pay attention to the weather reports on the radio, TV and/or web. Keep an ear open for flash flood warnings.
- Related to that, a smartphone can be very handy for accessing situation reports on the web, aside from communicating via voice, SMS, and email.
- Keep up with household maintenance such as your gutters, drainage ditches and make sure that any trees near your house are trimmed back.
- Be aware of road and mass transit conditions, so you don't get stranded somewhere.
- If possible, have alternate routes, but be aware that you may be stuck in one location for awhile.
- Since you may get stuck somewhere for awhile, keep enough cash and a credit card with you. It's also a good idea to keep some emergency supplies in your vehicle. Don't forget a poncho.
- Do not try to drive through deep water. You won't know how deep it is and you can't see what's in it, which could damage your car. Just as bad you could get stuck. In some situations you may get swept away.
- Employers should give strong consideration to allowing employees to work remotely via VPN or other remote access technologies like LogMeIn.
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Fixing Up a USGI Aluminum Canteen
Last weekend I went to the gun show in Valley Forge and found a 1945 vintage USGI aluminum canteen and carrier for $25. (I remember when they were a few bucks.) I like the old metal canteens because unlike plastic vessels you can heat water in them. Plus, compared with plastic canteens, they're just cool.
The canteen and cap were in good shape but the cork gasket was missing. So, I went to Lowe's in search of a replacement. I'd read of using a silicone end cap for for pipes as a source for gasket material, but couldn't find any in stock. Naturally, the store staff was nowhere to be found.
I did find over in the adhesive section some DAP food/aquarium grade sealant/adhesive. (The link is to Grainger.) I put a layer a couple millimeters thick inside the top of the cap, being careful to keep it off the threads. Then I let the goop cure for a couple of days.
Tonight I filled the canteen with water, screwed on the cap, and shook it vigorously. It didn't leak, so I'm going to chalk up this experiment as a success.
One mod I may make is to attach the cap with a snap link to the body of the canteen. That will allow me to remove the plastic cap and place the canteen over a fire.
A cheaper alternative to the USGI aluminum canteens are the surplus French aluminum canteens
. They appear to have a wider mouth than the US canteens, which could be handy if you wanted to put ice cubes in it, for example.
The canteen and cap were in good shape but the cork gasket was missing. So, I went to Lowe's in search of a replacement. I'd read of using a silicone end cap for for pipes as a source for gasket material, but couldn't find any in stock. Naturally, the store staff was nowhere to be found.
I did find over in the adhesive section some DAP food/aquarium grade sealant/adhesive. (The link is to Grainger.) I put a layer a couple millimeters thick inside the top of the cap, being careful to keep it off the threads. Then I let the goop cure for a couple of days.
Tonight I filled the canteen with water, screwed on the cap, and shook it vigorously. It didn't leak, so I'm going to chalk up this experiment as a success.
One mod I may make is to attach the cap with a snap link to the body of the canteen. That will allow me to remove the plastic cap and place the canteen over a fire.
A cheaper alternative to the USGI aluminum canteens are the surplus French aluminum canteens
. They appear to have a wider mouth than the US canteens, which could be handy if you wanted to put ice cubes in it, for example.
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Bannock: A Simple Camp Bread
A traditional camp food, and one that's easy to make without a full fledged kitchen, is bannock. I just tried my hand at making bannock for the first time and it came out good. I used the recipe found here. In case that link disappears, here is the recipe:
Since I was making it for only myself I halved the measurements.
To cook the bannock I used a new 8" cast iron skillet that I bought this morning at the local supermarket. I first cooked a few slices of bacon in the skillet to start seasoning it, then drained most of the grease and then put in the dough. It took up the whole pan but I was able to flip it over after about 5 minutes using a spatula. Flip it when the bottom is golden brown. Another five minutes or so and it was done. Check that it's done by poking the center to make sure the dough is cooked.
I topped the bannock with some grape jelly and had it for lunch along with the bacon. Tasted great and it's filling.
Depending on how sticky you make the dough (which depends on how much water you add), you can cook bannock by making a "rope" and wrapping it around a stick and then cooking it over a campfire. I've also read of it being cooked on flat rocks heated in a fire.
For camping or an emergency evacuation, one could make up premixed Ziploc bags of bannock dough, sans water, then cook them up upon reaching a rest stop or campsite. According to the link above, cooked bannock also freezes well.
- 2 cups flour
- 2 tablespoons baking powder
- 2 tablespoons sugar
- 2 pinches of salt
- Sometimes people will add other ingredients like cinnamon or berries.
Since I was making it for only myself I halved the measurements.
To cook the bannock I used a new 8" cast iron skillet that I bought this morning at the local supermarket. I first cooked a few slices of bacon in the skillet to start seasoning it, then drained most of the grease and then put in the dough. It took up the whole pan but I was able to flip it over after about 5 minutes using a spatula. Flip it when the bottom is golden brown. Another five minutes or so and it was done. Check that it's done by poking the center to make sure the dough is cooked.
I topped the bannock with some grape jelly and had it for lunch along with the bacon. Tasted great and it's filling.
Depending on how sticky you make the dough (which depends on how much water you add), you can cook bannock by making a "rope" and wrapping it around a stick and then cooking it over a campfire. I've also read of it being cooked on flat rocks heated in a fire.
For camping or an emergency evacuation, one could make up premixed Ziploc bags of bannock dough, sans water, then cook them up upon reaching a rest stop or campsite. According to the link above, cooked bannock also freezes well.
Friday, September 03, 2010
Improved Hobo Stove
A few years ago I wrote about a hobo stove which I made from a coffee can. I got home early today from work and decided to see if I could improve it. I succeeded and posted my results, along with some pictures, here.
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Garmin nuvi GPS Recall
From Garmin:
Go to Garmin's site and enter in your device's serial number. It'll tell you if your unit needs to be sent in for service.
Garmin is voluntarily recalling certain nüvi devices that contain a specific battery that was manufactured by the battery supplier within a limited date code range. Garmin has identified potential overheating issues when certain batteries manufactured by the third-party battery supplier within a limited date code range are used in certain Garmin nüvi models with a specific printed circuit board (PCB) design. It appears that the interaction of these factors can, in rare circumstances, increase the possibility of overheating, which may lead to a fire hazard. Although there have been no injuries or significant property damage caused by this issue, Garmin is taking this action out of an abundance of caution.
The recalled devices include a small subset of the following nüvi model numbers:
You can determine your nüvi model number by looking at the label on the back or bottom of your nüvi.
- nüvi 200W, 250W, & 260W
- nüvi 7xx (where xx is a two-digit number)
Go to Garmin's site and enter in your device's serial number. It'll tell you if your unit needs to be sent in for service.
Thank you
Thank you to those readers who have purchased stuff after clicking on a link to Amazon.com
from this site. Every so often I get a gift certificate from them which helps on my own Amazon orders.
By no means am I making any significant amount of money from my Amazon affiliate links, but their gift certificates are a nice surprise when I do get them.
from this site. Every so often I get a gift certificate from them which helps on my own Amazon orders.By no means am I making any significant amount of money from my Amazon affiliate links, but their gift certificates are a nice surprise when I do get them.
Monday, August 23, 2010
Standalone vs. Cell Phone Based GPS
A family trip this weekend reiterated for me why I do not think that cell phone based GPSes are viable 100% replacements for dedicated GPSes in your car. At least, not yet.
We went up to Sullivan County, NY visit with some of my family. The route we take to get there passes through NE PA, including the Delaware Water Gap. My cousin, who's house we went to, lives in a rural area in which cell phone signal is spotty and often depends on how you orient your phone.
For navigation we had directions but also brought my Garmin Nuvi 200W, and both my wife and I have Android-based smartphones (a Droid and a Droid 2) with GPS integrated with Google Maps. The Droids use the Verizon 3G data link to download maps on the fly. In contrast, the Garmin stores maps locally.
We had no or poor cell phone signal, or no 3G for a good part of the drive. Notably, the times when we had no signal were the times when the GPS was most needed. I.e., rural back roads with poor signage and no street lighting. If we had needed to depend on a phone-based GPS we'd have been out of luck.
There are a few applications designed to allow you to download and store maps offline in case you lose your cell phone signal, e.g., Maps (-). However, this may not help you if you need to significantly deviate from your route, or if you need the GPS in an emergency and the cell network is down.
If your cell phone GPS usage is limited to areas with good cell coverage and don't consider your GPS unit as part of your emergency preps, then you don't need a standalone unit. As for me, I'll be updating the maps in my Garmin soon.
We went up to Sullivan County, NY visit with some of my family. The route we take to get there passes through NE PA, including the Delaware Water Gap. My cousin, who's house we went to, lives in a rural area in which cell phone signal is spotty and often depends on how you orient your phone.
For navigation we had directions but also brought my Garmin Nuvi 200W, and both my wife and I have Android-based smartphones (a Droid and a Droid 2) with GPS integrated with Google Maps. The Droids use the Verizon 3G data link to download maps on the fly. In contrast, the Garmin stores maps locally.
We had no or poor cell phone signal, or no 3G for a good part of the drive. Notably, the times when we had no signal were the times when the GPS was most needed. I.e., rural back roads with poor signage and no street lighting. If we had needed to depend on a phone-based GPS we'd have been out of luck.
There are a few applications designed to allow you to download and store maps offline in case you lose your cell phone signal, e.g., Maps (-). However, this may not help you if you need to significantly deviate from your route, or if you need the GPS in an emergency and the cell network is down.
If your cell phone GPS usage is limited to areas with good cell coverage and don't consider your GPS unit as part of your emergency preps, then you don't need a standalone unit. As for me, I'll be updating the maps in my Garmin soon.
Saturday, August 14, 2010
New SAS Smock
In the past I've posted about a couple of cotton jackets which I own, my replica Second Pattern Denison Smock and my EOTac Field Jacket. Both are nice pieces of kit but I've had a hankering for one of the more modern British combat smocks. However, I wanted one in olive green, not DPM camo, since OG doesn't stand out as much when wearing it in an urban or suburban environment.
Unfortunately, non-DPM British combat smocks are not easily found on this side of the pond. Sportsman's Guide currently lists desert DPM camo surplus smocks, along with Mil-Tec branc British-style smocks in CCE camo (which is French, AIUI). Also, I've seen well-used woodland DPM smocks at I. Goldberg's in Philly, but not in my size.
That left me with one option: ordering a smock from the UK. I've been eyeballing the smocks from S.A.S.S. for awhile and by all accounts, they are extremely nice. However, they are really spendy. Like over $200 after shipping is taken into account. I really didn't want to spend that amount of money right now.
After some more searching I found the eBay store of "CFI-Military." He listed a "British Military Army SAS Green Windproof Combat Smock" L42.99 + L25 shipping. When I ordered one on August 1st, the exchange rate worked out to a total cost of $110 and change.
I was rather pleasantly surprised when the smock arrived a mere five days after I ordered it. Here is a picture of the smock:
And the garment tag:
The smock is made from olive green 65/35 poly/cotton gabardine fabric. It has four bellows pockets on the front, two on the chest and two at the bottom of the smock. There's a map pocket on the top left inside, and two poacher's pockets at the bottom of the smock on the inside. Each of the poacher's pockets are big enough to hold a field stripped MRE. There's a pocket on the right sleeve big enough to hold a space blanket or bandage. On the left sleeve there's a pocket for a pen and a small notepad.
Map and poacher's pockets:
The hood and the shoulders are lined with a second layer of fabric. The hood had a drawstring in the front and a second one in the back. I cut the front drawstring to prevent getting choked and put cord locks from REI on each half. There are drawstrings at the bottom and midriff, which I also added cord locks to. The two-way, full-length zipper is covered by a stormflap which can be closed with Velcro. There are rank tab slides (basically vertical epaulets) on both the front and back. I may remove one or both of these. The cuffs are adjustable with Velcro tabs.
Cuff detail:
Rather than being sewn directly to the fabric, the buttons are sewn to cotton tapes which in turn are sewn to the fabric. This makes them easier to work with gloves on.
Detail of pocket flap and button:
Back of the smock showing hood adjustment tape and rank slide:
Upon first inspection, the smock appeared to be generally well made but with a number of excess threads which needed trimming. However, a closer inspection revealed one defect which would have caused me to return it for an exchange had I purchased it from a domestic supplier. Specifically, the stitching around the buttonhole of the lower left pocket was very bad and had unraveled. Since I didn't want to mail it back to England I just got out my sewing kit and redid it myself, which took about a half hour.
I ordered an XL, although it's marked with the metric size 180/108 (height/chest in cm). Wearing it over a t-shirt there's plenty of room without feeling like I'm wearing a tent, but it also fits comfortably over my Polartec 300 SPEAR jacket.
The sleeves are a little long on me but not uncomfortably so. The body is long enough so that it covers me down to mid-thigh. CCW with this smock will be easy.
A couple nights ago I wore the smock on a walk around the block. It was drizzling and there was a 10 MPH wind, with temps in the 70s F. Not much of a test but I felt no wind through the tightly woven gabardine. I'll be able to test it out better once the temp drops about 20 degrees.
Yesterday I washed it in warm water then dried it on the delicate cycle. I didn't notice any shrinkage. This morning I sprayed it down with a can of Scotchguard to make it more water repellent and stain resistant.
One may wonder why I'd want a cotton outer garment when I already have modern technical outerwear. As I've written about previously, cotton or blends have a a few advantages over modern hard and softshells. First, they are more breathable. Second, they aren't as vulnerable to sparks flying off a campfire. Additionally, they are quieter in the woods and may be less reflective of IR. That said, because cotton is not waterproof like a modern hardshell, when there's the possibility of encountering wet weather it would be prudent to carry either a poncho or a light weight modern waterproof jacket, like my Marmot Precip. The latter can be worn between the smock and your insulating layer. Doing so protects the waterproof jacket from wear and tear, is quieter, and allows you to access gear in the smock's pockets.
I'm in the process of equipping the smock so that in effect, it's a wearable survival kit. So far I've added a first aid kit carried in one of the poacher's pockets, a Silva pocket compass/thermometer in the top left pocket, and a Fisher Space Pen in the left sleeve pocket. I'll be adding things like a bandanna, a cigar tin based kit with fire starting stuff, a length of paracord, and a few other things.
These smocks are practical wear for when you're out in the woods if you keep the limitations of cotton or poly/cotton garments in mind. The Brits still issue similar smocks as part of their combat kit. Overall, I think the SAS smock from CFI Military is a pretty good deal for us Yanks looking for this type of garment.
Unfortunately, non-DPM British combat smocks are not easily found on this side of the pond. Sportsman's Guide currently lists desert DPM camo surplus smocks, along with Mil-Tec branc British-style smocks in CCE camo (which is French, AIUI). Also, I've seen well-used woodland DPM smocks at I. Goldberg's in Philly, but not in my size.
That left me with one option: ordering a smock from the UK. I've been eyeballing the smocks from S.A.S.S. for awhile and by all accounts, they are extremely nice. However, they are really spendy. Like over $200 after shipping is taken into account. I really didn't want to spend that amount of money right now.
After some more searching I found the eBay store of "CFI-Military." He listed a "British Military Army SAS Green Windproof Combat Smock" L42.99 + L25 shipping. When I ordered one on August 1st, the exchange rate worked out to a total cost of $110 and change.
I was rather pleasantly surprised when the smock arrived a mere five days after I ordered it. Here is a picture of the smock:
And the garment tag:
The smock is made from olive green 65/35 poly/cotton gabardine fabric. It has four bellows pockets on the front, two on the chest and two at the bottom of the smock. There's a map pocket on the top left inside, and two poacher's pockets at the bottom of the smock on the inside. Each of the poacher's pockets are big enough to hold a field stripped MRE. There's a pocket on the right sleeve big enough to hold a space blanket or bandage. On the left sleeve there's a pocket for a pen and a small notepad.
Map and poacher's pockets:
The hood and the shoulders are lined with a second layer of fabric. The hood had a drawstring in the front and a second one in the back. I cut the front drawstring to prevent getting choked and put cord locks from REI on each half. There are drawstrings at the bottom and midriff, which I also added cord locks to. The two-way, full-length zipper is covered by a stormflap which can be closed with Velcro. There are rank tab slides (basically vertical epaulets) on both the front and back. I may remove one or both of these. The cuffs are adjustable with Velcro tabs.
Cuff detail:
Rather than being sewn directly to the fabric, the buttons are sewn to cotton tapes which in turn are sewn to the fabric. This makes them easier to work with gloves on.
Detail of pocket flap and button:
Back of the smock showing hood adjustment tape and rank slide:
Upon first inspection, the smock appeared to be generally well made but with a number of excess threads which needed trimming. However, a closer inspection revealed one defect which would have caused me to return it for an exchange had I purchased it from a domestic supplier. Specifically, the stitching around the buttonhole of the lower left pocket was very bad and had unraveled. Since I didn't want to mail it back to England I just got out my sewing kit and redid it myself, which took about a half hour.
I ordered an XL, although it's marked with the metric size 180/108 (height/chest in cm). Wearing it over a t-shirt there's plenty of room without feeling like I'm wearing a tent, but it also fits comfortably over my Polartec 300 SPEAR jacket.
The sleeves are a little long on me but not uncomfortably so. The body is long enough so that it covers me down to mid-thigh. CCW with this smock will be easy.
A couple nights ago I wore the smock on a walk around the block. It was drizzling and there was a 10 MPH wind, with temps in the 70s F. Not much of a test but I felt no wind through the tightly woven gabardine. I'll be able to test it out better once the temp drops about 20 degrees.
Yesterday I washed it in warm water then dried it on the delicate cycle. I didn't notice any shrinkage. This morning I sprayed it down with a can of Scotchguard to make it more water repellent and stain resistant.
One may wonder why I'd want a cotton outer garment when I already have modern technical outerwear. As I've written about previously, cotton or blends have a a few advantages over modern hard and softshells. First, they are more breathable. Second, they aren't as vulnerable to sparks flying off a campfire. Additionally, they are quieter in the woods and may be less reflective of IR. That said, because cotton is not waterproof like a modern hardshell, when there's the possibility of encountering wet weather it would be prudent to carry either a poncho or a light weight modern waterproof jacket, like my Marmot Precip. The latter can be worn between the smock and your insulating layer. Doing so protects the waterproof jacket from wear and tear, is quieter, and allows you to access gear in the smock's pockets.
I'm in the process of equipping the smock so that in effect, it's a wearable survival kit. So far I've added a first aid kit carried in one of the poacher's pockets, a Silva pocket compass/thermometer in the top left pocket, and a Fisher Space Pen in the left sleeve pocket. I'll be adding things like a bandanna, a cigar tin based kit with fire starting stuff, a length of paracord, and a few other things.
These smocks are practical wear for when you're out in the woods if you keep the limitations of cotton or poly/cotton garments in mind. The Brits still issue similar smocks as part of their combat kit. Overall, I think the SAS smock from CFI Military is a pretty good deal for us Yanks looking for this type of garment.
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Saturday, July 17, 2010
Book Review: The Modern Survival Manual: Surviving the Economic Collapse
I've been meaning to do a review of The Modern Survival Manual: Surviving the Economic Collapse, by Fernando "FerFAL" Aguirre for quite awhile now. Well, here it is.
Most of the survival guides which I've seen, such as Tappan On Survival or the works of John Wesley, Rawles (he spells his name with the comma) recommend heading for the hills in the event of a socio-economic collapse, or better yet moving out to an isolated rural location before the SHTF. This recommendation is based on the theory that if the economy collapses, the have-nots will soon turn their attention to the haves and loot them for food, luxuries, and the womenfolk. Thus, it's best to maximize the distance between yourself and the urban looters who will come for your stuff once their foodstuffs and supplies are exhuasted.
FerFAL takes a different approach, one worth listening to, because unlike Tappan or Rawles, he has actually lived through an economic collapse. In his case, it was the 2001 collapse in Argentina, and its aftermath. Rather than telling you to move to a rural retreat, FerFAL recommends you stay in "civilization" and enhance your skills to cope with how society evolves after a collapse.
One very important point the author makes regarding isolated rural retreats is that if you are attacked, help is a long time coming, and likely won't arrive until well after the criminals are long gone. Examples of this are white farmers in rural Argentina, South Africa and Zimbabwe, who have suffered horrific home invasions in recent years. If you're located in an urban area or a suburb, there is a much better chance of help arriving in time. As with many things, choosing where to live is a balancing act and you need to weigh this factor, along with many other.
Although Argentina's economy collapsed in 2001, by and large the country did not devolve into some Mad Max-esque post-apocalyptic wasteland. Although crime skyrocketed, people figured out ways to cope. For example, private security became a booming field.
While it may not be The Wasteland, property crimes and robberies have become much more common in Argentina. FerFAL spends a lot of time discussing how to deal with this, from situtational awareness to carrying a pistol for self defense. American survivalists often fixate on the best rifle for a SHTF scenario. In reality, the most important gun to have in the one you can take with you. IOW, a pistol. FerFAL favors a Glock and also likes the Argentine FM Hi Power (a Browning Hi Power produced under license from FN). In general, he likes high capacity modern pistols since there are numerous cases where a good guy is confronted with several assailants. Here in the US most defensive gun uses don't even require shots fired since criminals are generally loather to confront someone resisting with deadly force. In the aftermath of an economic collapse, criminals may be more desperate, and thus more willing to take risks. This is something to take into account if things ever get to that point in the US.
That said, after you get a suitable pistol and holster, you should still have a suitable home defense rifle or shotgun.
Aside from the dramatic increase in crime, one thing FerFAL emphasizes is that in the aftermath of an economic collapse, one of the keys to survival is adaptability. In other words, you may need to change how you make your living, and may need to do a variety of things rather than holding down just one job.
FerFAL also discusses the use of precious metals (PMs) as barter material/alternate currency after a monetary collapse. Reading his take on this (both in the book and on his blog) caused me to reevalute my own position on PMs, which I'd previously dismissed.
FerFAL's book is not without its faults. The book is self-published. English is not his first language and it would benefit from the attention of an editor. There's also some coarse language which some people may find offputting. That said, this book is unique (or nearly so) in that it is based on the real life experience of living through an economic collapse. As such, it deserves a spot on the shelf of anyone concerned about the direction in which the US is heading.
Most of the survival guides which I've seen, such as Tappan On Survival or the works of John Wesley, Rawles (he spells his name with the comma) recommend heading for the hills in the event of a socio-economic collapse, or better yet moving out to an isolated rural location before the SHTF. This recommendation is based on the theory that if the economy collapses, the have-nots will soon turn their attention to the haves and loot them for food, luxuries, and the womenfolk. Thus, it's best to maximize the distance between yourself and the urban looters who will come for your stuff once their foodstuffs and supplies are exhuasted.
FerFAL takes a different approach, one worth listening to, because unlike Tappan or Rawles, he has actually lived through an economic collapse. In his case, it was the 2001 collapse in Argentina, and its aftermath. Rather than telling you to move to a rural retreat, FerFAL recommends you stay in "civilization" and enhance your skills to cope with how society evolves after a collapse.
One very important point the author makes regarding isolated rural retreats is that if you are attacked, help is a long time coming, and likely won't arrive until well after the criminals are long gone. Examples of this are white farmers in rural Argentina, South Africa and Zimbabwe, who have suffered horrific home invasions in recent years. If you're located in an urban area or a suburb, there is a much better chance of help arriving in time. As with many things, choosing where to live is a balancing act and you need to weigh this factor, along with many other.
Although Argentina's economy collapsed in 2001, by and large the country did not devolve into some Mad Max-esque post-apocalyptic wasteland. Although crime skyrocketed, people figured out ways to cope. For example, private security became a booming field.
While it may not be The Wasteland, property crimes and robberies have become much more common in Argentina. FerFAL spends a lot of time discussing how to deal with this, from situtational awareness to carrying a pistol for self defense. American survivalists often fixate on the best rifle for a SHTF scenario. In reality, the most important gun to have in the one you can take with you. IOW, a pistol. FerFAL favors a Glock and also likes the Argentine FM Hi Power (a Browning Hi Power produced under license from FN). In general, he likes high capacity modern pistols since there are numerous cases where a good guy is confronted with several assailants. Here in the US most defensive gun uses don't even require shots fired since criminals are generally loather to confront someone resisting with deadly force. In the aftermath of an economic collapse, criminals may be more desperate, and thus more willing to take risks. This is something to take into account if things ever get to that point in the US.
That said, after you get a suitable pistol and holster, you should still have a suitable home defense rifle or shotgun.
Aside from the dramatic increase in crime, one thing FerFAL emphasizes is that in the aftermath of an economic collapse, one of the keys to survival is adaptability. In other words, you may need to change how you make your living, and may need to do a variety of things rather than holding down just one job.
FerFAL also discusses the use of precious metals (PMs) as barter material/alternate currency after a monetary collapse. Reading his take on this (both in the book and on his blog) caused me to reevalute my own position on PMs, which I'd previously dismissed.
FerFAL's book is not without its faults. The book is self-published. English is not his first language and it would benefit from the attention of an editor. There's also some coarse language which some people may find offputting. That said, this book is unique (or nearly so) in that it is based on the real life experience of living through an economic collapse. As such, it deserves a spot on the shelf of anyone concerned about the direction in which the US is heading.
Heimo's Arctic Refuge
Heimo's Artic Refuge is a 53 minute video about the Korth family, some of the last people living a real frontier lifestyle in the wilds of the Alaskan Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.
If you liked Alone in the Wilderness with Dick Proenneke, you'll like this.
If you liked Alone in the Wilderness with Dick Proenneke, you'll like this.
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